Since taking up the Celtic Tin Whistle, I found another outlet for this type of musical instrument; building your own custom flutes from PVC. Now I love everything DIY, so I took the project and ran with it, and within two days I had made the three flutes above.
Pics, reviews, instructions, and more after the break!
First off I went with a 1/2" CPVC fife - it was actually all the PVC I had on hand, and I didn't think it would work very well at all! My technique was hardly scientific - you could say I took a drill and a vague idea of what a flute looked like, and kinda ignored whatever that thing is called mathematics. And hey, it worked.
Dowel stopper in the end of the flute |
So what tools and techniques do you need to build your own?
Tools:
- Electric drill and many drill bits
- Medium and fine grit sandpaper
- Small (preferably half-round) file
Materials:
- PVC or CPVC of your choice
- Some sort of stopper or endcap
Techniques:
- Basic knowledge of how instruments and flutes work to generate sound
- At least an hour and a half of time
A $200 instrument and a $2 instrument |
http://iotic.com/flutomat/
http://11wall-west.com/~ph_kosel/flutomat.html
The second flute I built was directly based on the "Plumber's Pipe" model, full writeup of which can be found here: http://www.markshep.com/flute/Pipe.html
The instructions were quite easy to follow and it turned out rather well, although not as aesthetically pleasing as the others, it is a very robust design.
Steps to building your own PVC flute!
First off, choose your type of pipe and the key. Each size of pipe will work best with a length that only spans a few notes of the scale, so it's best to look that up before hand. My 1/2" fife is in the key of B and works pretty well, the Plumber's Pipe and 3/4" PVC flute are both in the key of G and work very well. Cut to the right length (this is where Flutomat comes in handy) and sand the edge smooth.
Next, measure and mark where your holes will be placed. Don't worry about marking up your flute at this point, any leftover marks will be sanded off soon.
Pilot holes! Drill small holes on each of your marks to have your holes centered and easier to drill.
Next off, tuning and drilling. If you've used Flutomat or a template, you already know what size to drill all your holes, which will be helpful. Otherwise, it's tuning by ear and incremental drilling - which will be slow, but educational at least.
Sanding! Take your flute to a large sink, use wet or dry sandpaper, and clean it off and make it nice and smooth and pretty. You can either use a medium sandpaper and get a more natural feeling matte finish (it will get dirty faster though!) or use steel wool after sandpaper to buff it back to mild gloss.
You should also carefully deburr all the holes and make them smooth for the best tone, especially the mouthpiece.
Stopping it up! After cleaning it all out, now is the best time to permanently put in your stopper or endcap and keep it there. The design I made for this flute was rather unusual, but I jammed 1/2" PVC inside the 3/4" PVC at the end, left some sticking out, then capped it with a 1/2" PVC endcap. This created a lot of deadspace and made it flat - then I filled the small 1/2" section with plumber's putty to seal it off and put it back in tune. Perhaps not the cleanest or best smelling solution, but it worked well and looks very nice on the outside all finished up.
Well, that's really all there is to it! There are a lot of other instructions out there I know, so I glossed over some of the basics but I hope you find all my tips and tricks helpful in your flute journeys!
Feel free to leave a comment or pictures below of your own custom flutes as well!
how long should the 3/4 pvc pipe be to make a G note?
ReplyDeleteDepends based on where you have the mouthpiece hole, but my 3/4" CPVC pipe is cut to 15.75 inches and the 3/4" PVC pipe is cut to 16.75 inches, although at least an inch of that is past the mouthpiece as you can see in the pictures. I'd say to start a bit longer since you can always trim it back down :)
DeleteHi! I guess you drill the embochure at 90° (normal) to the pipe; but what about drill the embochure hole with a 45° angle (blow attack) for a best blow cut and sound. I've seen that somewhere but, is that suitable? thanks.
ReplyDeleteIf you're able to drill the embochure hole at 45 degrees and make a clean hole, go for it! It will be very difficult though and you'll risk cracking the PVC, so the safer course is to drill a straight hole, then use a file to get the angle.
DeleteI need diagrams with measurements in the instructions/diagrams.could someone help?
DeleteThe link in the article gives very specific instructions for how to make the "plumbers pipe" model. For other models, Flutomat will generate measurements for anything you need.
DeleteThank You So Much for Sharing this types of blogs. I got lots of information from your Blog. AKG Group is the CPVC, PVC, uPVC Pipes & Wire Manufacturer in Delhi, Noida, NCR , India . know more about me. visit here - www.akggroupindia.com
ReplyDeleteHi there,
ReplyDeletefor your 3/4 inch flute, were you able to play the chromatic scale for one octave?
They all play non-chromatic scales for about two octaves. You could probably drill smaller holes right next to each other to make it chromatic but that would be more difficult to make and play.
DeleteWow, such an amazing post. thanks for share this blog with us.
ReplyDeletePlumbing Pipes
pvc fittings
Is it possible to make a C flute/piccolo?
ReplyDeleteYes, you can build them in any key or tuning you want! You could use one of the online calculators, or build a long flute and cut the end down until it's in C.
Deletei slide a small piece of card board into the flute near the embouchure and then fill the end with a glue gun. works great.
ReplyDelete